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Hemja, Nepal

  • Writer: Simon Clements
    Simon Clements
  • Feb 4, 2017
  • 2 min read

Hemja is about a 30 minute drive from Pokhara and home to a Tibetan Refugee village. The village was settled more than 55 years ago when a small group migrated due to political unrest.

There are now four generations and over 800 people living in the settlement, all of which are considered stateless. They can not return to Tibet (despite their wish to do so) and can not obtain a Nepalese passport either. And no further refugees are allowed to enter Nepal or the village. 

The village isn't very big and what it lacks in size it makes up for in charm. There's a monastery, gompa, stupa, school, public hall and a couple of shops. 

This rock has been hand chiselled to display Bhuddist prayer chants. It was as colourful in real life as it is in this photo. 

As I walked into the monastery grounds I was yelled at by an elderly lady. She demanded I sit with her. Saying "I'm fine, I'm just looking around" was unacceptable. So I sat between her and her friend and had a simple conversation before she gave me a tour of the site. 

As I walked and talked with her I had a real feeling of comfort. It was like we were old friends or she was my grandma. She would grab my arm and lead me in direction. When I didn't understand what she was saying she would roll her eyes and tap my arm. 

Running alongside the village is a wonderful river and pasture.

The people in the area use it for bathing and washing and relaxing. 

They also herd their cattle and goats here for grazing. 

Unexpectedly they also have a bungy jump in operation. In my opinion this is totally out of place in such a naturally beautiful area. 

As I strolled along the river I passed recently cultivated rice paddies and witnessed children playing and bathing.

It was a warm sunny day and after a while I decided to lay on a large rock sitting in the middle of the river. I simply rested there and looked up and down the river and listened to the water gently cascading over small rocks. Talk about peaceful!

As I continued to walk along the river I had an overwhelming need to lay down. I found another nice place, a green grassy spot high on a cliff which was softer than my rock. Here I fell asleep. 

When I awoke I was greeted by a elderly gentleman sitting by the river basking in the warm sun half naked. He saw me, I saw him and we both simultaneously said hello with pressed palms and a smile from a distance. It was one of those little moments that means more. 

The walk back took about 2 hours. Along the road we would hear a "Namaste" (hello) every 20 metres or so from shop owners and children. 

At one stage I walked passed a house and I heard a familiar sound of a heavy ball hitting a gate.

I peered over the fence and yep it was a backyard cricket game between 3 young brothers. A little conversation ensued and next thing I knew I was fielding at mid off before dominating with the bat. I gave them plenty of opportunity to catch me out. 

What else can I say.....I love Nepal. 


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About Me

I'm a Professional Dog Trainer, House Sitter, Procurement Contractor and  part time Traveler. 

I love to explore the unknown and experience all the there is.

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